Our Third Irish Week.
Monday, September 12, 2022
At last the time had come to do the one thing that was on MY itinerary. Clare Island. Home of Granuaile, Grace O’Malley, The Pirate Queen herself. We piled into the car and drove to the Clare Island ferry. We couldn’t take the car with us so we parked, slung our sack lunches over our shoulders and trotted down the dock to the small boat and we were off. The smell of the salt air was invigorating, and watching Clare island approach was to see a dream of mine become reality.
Surprisingly, though perhaps it should not have been, Granuaile’s castle was right on the bluff directly beside us as we disembarked the rickety ferry. Mom and I climbed up the very small hill and poked around. It wasn’t terribly large, more of a lookout post than anything, but that was to be expected. We were fortunate to discover a park bench right next to the castle so we plopped down and ate our sandwiches as we looked out over Clew Bay and gazed up at the stone structure standing impressively before us. I’ve used it as this week’s picture. After we’d eaten our fill I took a minute to walk around the castle barefoot in the clover, and feel the stones she must have known so well. Then we packed our lunch remains and strode into the town. They have a lovely beach front and the Sailor’s Bar and Grill was only a short walk away. The small storefronts were mostly closed as we had arrived after tourist season was over, but that was alright.
Once we’d breathed in enough beach air we decided to brave the half hour hike to Clare Island Abbey, where Granuaile is, supposedly, buried. It was quite a walk, and we were both huffing and puffing by the time we’d arrived. At first we were convinced it was closed down too, but thankfully the proprietor of the nearby convenience shop assured us we just needed to be a bit more forceful with the handle. His advice proved sound and we were able to peak into the abbey. No photos though, cameras of any kind are strictly prohibited.
Satisfied with our abbey visit, we caught the bus back to town. No need to do that walk twice. With over an hour to spare before our return voyage, we made our way back to the Sailor’s Bar and Grill for some tea and dessert.
Then, at last, it was time to return to Elmgrove Apartment and tuck in for bed. All in all, a VERY successful day, easily my favorite of the entire trip.
Tuesday, September 13, 2022
After packing our things and loading up the car we started our long drive to Kylemore Abbey. The place was packed! The first true tourist trap since we left Dublin. The abbey is really a castle, and a beautiful one at that. The interior had been largely made over as a museum to the abbey’s history, and the resident nuns take up only a small wing. There was much beautiful Victorian history on display from the castle itself, to the gardens, to the Gardener’s Cottage beside it. We spent most of the day there, listening to a history lecture, exploring the gardens, including an adorable fairy trail- much better than the one we’d visited previously. We took lunch there as well, though that wasn’t much to write home about. Once we’d walked as much as we could handle (and were feeling particularly sunburnt) we trapsed back to the car and made for Eriu Lodge, our home for the night.
Eriu Lodge is an ADORABLE bed and breakfast, it’s pink and flowery, with a luxurious bathroom attached to the room we were in. The proprietors are terribly friendly, and I recommend a stay there to anyone who happens to be in the area.
Wednesday, September 14, 2022
Alas, Eriu Lodge was a mere pitstop for us, and after breakfast we were once again in the car on our way to our next lodging, with plans to visit The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher on the way. The Burren was a bust. We couldn’t park close enough to the actual viewpoint to see anything, and neither of us was up to much walking. We stopped in at the Burren info center in Corrofin, and then had lunch at a bar called the Yellow Submarine. The name made us chuckle and the outside WAS painted bright yellow! I give them points for owning their theme.
The real highlight of the day was the Cliffs of Moher, another major tourist destination- and for good reason! The view from the cliffs was remarkable! If any of that land were for private sale I would purchase a small plot and build myself a cottage immediately. We puttered around the tower and the visitor center, which was cleverly dug into the side of one of the cliffs, there was a great deal of fascinating info to be gleaned there, but there were also a great deal of tourists, and not a mask on the bunch! We did not linger.
After taking in our fill of the sea air and the spectacular view, we once again squished into the car and drove to our next inn. This one looked lovely, and was right next to a delightful bar/restaurant that I could have gawked at for a week and still not seen in its entirety. They were both situated in Bunratty, and we meant to stay two nights so we could see Bunratty village the next day, in peace.
Thursday, September 15, 2022
Unfortunately, the following morning, we discovered bugs in our room! Creepy black wormy things. Naturally the owner claimed ignorance to having ever seen such a thing before, but we disposed of at least 10 of them in our room so I find that difficult to believe. We requested a refund for the second night as we were no longer planning to stay. He refunded us in cash, which I find somewhat suspect, and after we made sure our bags and clothes were clean of any unwelcome travelers we left, in rather a hurry.
We decided, instead, to head directly for our next stop. A hotel in Castlegregory called “The Harbour House”, hoping that they’d be willing to take us in a day early.
The day wasn’t a complete bust, however. On our way to Castlegregory we swung through Adare.
Adare was meant to be a quick snack and restroom stop, nothing more, but we both fell in love with it! It’s very easily the prettiest town I’ve seen all trip. They have a beautiful park right in the middle of town, thatched cottages everywhere. We stopped at a small chocolate shop for cocoa and treats, and looked around the town much longer than we intended. As it stands, Adare is the location in Ireland I would most like to move to. I feel like I’ve said that about some town or other every week, and it always feels true at the time. Who knows what next week will bring, will it unseat Adare as my top spot?
Eventually we finished our drive. The Harbour House is a lovely spot. Our room is beautiful, it overlooks the sea, they have a pool and a sauna. I could see myself staying in this place itself for a whole week, just to swim, relax, and look at the sea. It also helps that there are two resident cats who bask in the sun outside the place. I intend to befriend them!
Fortunately, they were able to accommodate us a day early, and we are now enjoying 4 nights here instead of 3. Bug free.
Friday, September 16, 2022
This was a decompression day. I think we were both very tightly wound after our previous, highly stressful, day. Breakfast was an adorable and sweet waffle, after which we lazed about. I went for a swim and then came in for a shower. Mom enjoyed her coffee looking out at the ocean view. We made a brief sojourn into town to pick up some lunch at the local grocery. Absolutely NO ONE is open for lunch in any of these towns. I swear I’m going to open a chain restaurant franchise that specializes in lunches all across the country and make my first fortune that way.
We came back to the B&B and ate our sandwiches while looking out at the beautiful ocean view and taking in the fresh air. Then it was back to the room. I snoozed and mom went for a beachside walk. After that mom went to take advantage of the sauna and I watched tv. At last, 5 pm rolled around and the promised eateries of Castlegregory began to open up. We, again, piled into the car and drove into town for pizza. One thing we have noticed is that the menu at almost every place we’ve been since Dublin is nearly identical and we were dying for a change. Pizza felt like a taste of home somehow.
After dinner we returned for some scrapbooking. We were woefully behind again. We did not get caught up, but needed to keep chipping away, at least.
Saturday, September 17, 2022
We rose, ate breakfast, and drove to Dingle, which was much more Metropolitan than either of us were expecting. After circling for ages to find a parking space we stopped in for lunch at a spot, aptly named, “The Diner.” Mom insists it’s the best food we’ve had all trip. I enjoyed it, but not that much. Once we finished our lunch we stretched our legs and went for a stroll around the town.
Dingle was hopping. I haven’t seen so many people since Dublin. Not even at the prime touristy spots! It seems like a lovely town. With beautiful houses all long the water front. This was another location that reminded me strongly of Koriko from Kiki’s Delivery service. Even more so this time because it is genuinely on the water! It really is lovely, but I think some of the charm is lost on me because of how crowded it is. That much hubbub ruins what is otherwise a gorgeous place in our world. I still recommend a visit to anyone who is in the country.
Dingle wasn’t our only stop, however. We also visited the Gallarus Oratory, and the Beehive huts in Ventry. Incredible! The oratory is an architectural marvel, and the huts have a life to them like nothing else we’ve seen. I could practically see the people living there, and hear their voices as they went about their ancient days. To think these structures are still standing today, stone buildings with no mortar, undisturbed by the ravages of man or weather, is truly humbling.
Our last stop for the day was Inch beach. It’s a good thing we did that last because if we’d started there I’d never have left. I love the sea. I always have. Something about it just calls out to me. We took off our shoes, and waded out into the freezing Atlantic water. I felt more at peace there than I have anywhere else on this trip, and yet, also more homesick. There are so many people in my life I’d love to have by my side in moments like that. Having mom there was wonderful, but my thoughts turned to all those I wished we had with us.
Once our toes were numb with cold we trudged to the nearby café for a cup of tea and a slice of rhubarb crumble before our drive home. Salt drenched and weary, we went to bed.
Sunday, September 18, 2022
Today was another bust. One of the many things we have discovered on our adventures is that Google Maps cannot be trusted out here. Particularly when it comes to establishments and their opening hours. Today was supposed to be a laundry day, we tallied our clothes and hoisted them into the car and drove to the local laundromat. Naturally when we got there we discovered that it is closed on Sundays- in spite of Google Maps telling us it’s open daily. Frustrated, but not really surprised, we’d been mislead by opening hours enough times at this point, we stopped at the grocery for some sandwiches and returned to the inn. We had a quiet lunch, again looking out at the sea, this time from a different vantage point. It made the whole thing look completely new.
Not wanting to waste the day, but with nowhere nearby to do our washing, we decided to finally get caught up on our scrap book. It took the entire afternoon, but we are now, thankfully, caught up. Only one more week left of this trip left so we can’t possibly fall TOO far behind again, right?
After we finished it was time for a swim in the nice warm indoor pool, and then back out to Spillane’s for dinner, for the third night in a row. Not because we love them, mind you, they’re just the only dining spot in a 20 minute radius. And their food is tasty enough.
Then it was back to the inn to catch up on my blog, and pack for the next leg of our journey. Laundry will just have to happen tomorrow. Thankfully there is a place near our next hotel, and they ARE open all day. I called to make certain, and it actually worked. Thank heaven.
